Po mojoj procjeni, prošlo je 34 godine otkako sam se zadnji put probijao niz malu šljunčanu plažu, iza brodogradilišta u Trajekt za Felixstowe, u svojim pouzdanim čizmama do stegna "Bullseye" i popeo se na čamac koji je bio pričvršćen za Dougie Goodallov ribarski brod "Swallow II". Nisam ni slutio, dok smo veslali do pristaništa, da će ovo slavno, rano ljetno jutro davne 1982. biti moje posljednje putovanje nakon mnogo, mnogo godina. Završna scena djetinjstva koje je svjedočilo mukama naših lokalnih obalnih ribara i koje je stvorilo i predstavljalo strast prema toj industriji i njezinim sudionicima, koju sada tako snažno osjećam. Tijekom ljeta koje sam provodio loveći rakove i jastoge, a zime parangalima loveći bakalar i ražu, dragocjene sate svojih praznika i vikenda na moru rado sam provodio u otvorenom motornom čamcu od klinkera, bez VHF-a i prsluka za spašavanje., EPIRB, GPS, mobitel ili čak kvota, što je značilo da smo lovili što smo htjeli i gdje smo htjeli. Za mene, savršeno idilično (iako često siromašno) postojanje kojem je tek kraj mojih školskih dana označio kraj, usađujući u mene urođenu ljubav prema morskim plodovima i, štoviše, duboko i duboko ukorijenjeno poštovanje prema onima koji podnose ne samo svakodnevne hirove vremena, plime i godišnjeg doba, već i složene i često pogrešne radnje Zajednička ribarstvena politika, etched out by officialdom with rigorous and determined enforcement. But I’m here again, oilskin-donned and with the biggest of grins across my face as I’m rowed to the Valerie Ann (IH322) at the invitation of Under 10m skipper Ed Butters, to steam once more from this diminutive but much-loved, weatherboarded and weatherbeaten gem of Suffolk’s heritage coast, on the hunt for the first of the new season’s lobsters. Južni i ponekad zanemaren rođak hvaljenih turističkih odredišta Aldeburgh i Southwold, Felixstowe Ferry sa svojom bogatom pomorskom poviješću, odiše eklektičnim i individualnim šarmom koji tijekom cijele godine privlači tisuće posjetitelja s mora i kopna. Smješten je dvije milje sjeverno od svog prostranog i dominantnog komercijalnog susjeda, Luka Felixstowe, koji se trenutno može pohvaliti jednim od najvećih kontejnerskih terminala na svijetu, njegova temeljna privlačnost nesumnjivo proizlazi iz njegove bezvremenske i nepatvorene jednostavnosti te činjenice da je razvoj tijekom godina bio ublažen. Ovdje postoji individualna i doista vrlo autonomna zajednica čiji stanovnici imaju koristi od crkve (Sv. Nikole) i puba (Trajekt) i dva kafića. John White, ribar, brodograditelj, a sada i lučki kapetan, ispričao mi je što mu je točno značilo 70 godina života u trajektu i kao ribar i kako su se vremena promijenila. “Moji su se roditelji preselili ovdje nakon rata kada je moj otac napustio trgovačku mornaricu”, prisjeća se. “Počeo je ovdje loviti ribu i ja sam oduvijek bio dio te scene.” Ribarska flota, glavni oslonac zajednice u to vrijeme, brojala je mnogo više skipera i posade, ali i danas značajan broj njih posluje s ušća Debena, s trenutno devet stalno registriranih plovila. “Naravno”, nastavlja John, “danas zapravo imamo više brodova koji ovdje love komercijalno nego Lowestoft.” A galling fact, when you consider the historical status and importance of the East coast’s most famous trademark, but now erstwhile fishing port. Yachting and the services it demands, plays an increasingly important part too in the economy here. Visiting UK sailors and from nearby Belgium (only 80 miles), Holland and France, drop in regularly for supplies and fuel or just to appreciate the stunning scenery of the surrounding Suffolk coastline and countryside with views up river to further moorings at Ramsholt, Waldringfield and Woodbridge. Centrepiece is the well-known and much photographed jetty, where the Ferry has run for generations, latterly skippered by John and before that, his father in law and well-respected local figure Charlie Brinkley, providing travellers with a crucial, time-saving crossing to Bawdsey on the northerly bank and still hugely popular with walkers and cyclists. “Tijekom godine imamo stotine posjeta plovila”, oduševljeno govori John. Kao lučki kapetan, on također djeluje kao pilot za posjetitelje kojima je potrebna pomoć pri sigurnom dovođenju plovila u Deben. Ovdje također ima mnogo sadržaja za ljubitelje plovidbe, bilo motornim ili jedrenim. Jedriličarski klub je dobro etabliran s uspješnim članstvom i Trajektno pristanište Nudi popravke, izvlačenje brodova, prodaju voća i privezišta, a još uvijek gradi brojne brodove, od osnovnih školjkastih jedrilica do prekrasnih linija modernih ribarskih brodova od 26 stopa, od kojih se jedan trenutno nalazi u radionici, a bit će dovršen ove godine i predodređen je da ovdje ostane ribariti, nastavljajući vrijednu tradiciju proizvodnje kvalitetnih morskih brodova, na što su Andrew Moore i njegov tim u brodogradilištu Felixstowe Ferry s pravom ponosni. As we leave the mooring and motor steadily against the young flood tide out to the lobster grounds, where Ed’s pots lie fishing, I notice the shingle bars and spits that mark the river entrance have shifted considerably since my days afloat here. Ed points out the depth of water we have to negotiate, on the sounder and indicates the position of the channel buoys which John monitors constantly to ensure they always mark the most safely navigable route. “At High Water we can still nip over the bar with our draft,” Ed explains, “but you don’t want to be caught short coming home with a boat full of fish and not much freeboard, so it pays to be careful.”   Earlier, John reminded me that in summer, the submerged shingle bar with its confused waters, harbours schools of wily bass, eager to swallow tempting lures, although now recreationally restricted since the enforcement of their new catch regulations in January. Steaming now into the northerly inshore sea area, locally known as East Lane, the familiar landmark of Dvorac Bawdsey nadvija se s lijeve strane, njegove kupole i krila nekoć su ugostili tim predvođen Robert Watson-Watt i njegov ključni ratni izum radara, koji se čini neobično simboličnim dok prolazimo pored njega, prema prvom dahnu (marker plutači). With lobsters our main quarry, Ed is anxious to know what his pots might yield, having not hauled since Easter – a constant blow keeping him ashore since then. “We may find some of them have moved” he tuts. “I shoot them in lines and each end pot is a heavier one to act as a marker.” The dahns hove into view and I’m reminded that with a strong tide running now, quite often the gear will “run under” only popping back into sight as it slackens towards High Water. Lobsters have been plentiful, in recent years, although not in such numbers as John White and his father saw immediately after World War II, when a lack of fishing meant massive recruitment and low mortality for that species. Now the pressure is back on though, as restricted areas for the nearby wind farm developments and associated cabling work, have meant that fishermen have been forced into ever decreasing spots, with individual gear often shot in close proximity on the more productive patches. As Ed hauls the first pot, I’m told that at present the gear is being fished as “singles” whereas later in the season with more fish on the ground then they’re made up into “shanks” and fished eight pots in line, as a string.    Nothing on the first haul but the second pot yields a keeper, just exceeding the gauge on its carapace, another one on the third and a selection of cock and hen crabs appear too as we haul, mainly on the muddier ground, with the lobsters dominating the cleaner rock. With several lobsters in the box, I set to work banding the claws as Ed hauls, making sure I at least contribute something to the morning. I’m encouraged to see the number of smaller, undersized fish (or “Nancies” as my father used to call them) that we return unharmed to the water. One more “shed” or moult for those specimens and they themselves will be going ashore. Ed i njegov brat Rob (također vani jutros, love bakalar i ražu iza horizonta) većinu svog ulova prodaju lokalno. Dave Hicks iz Riba proljetne plime, odmah uz mol, kupuje što više lokalne ribe i školjaka od Butterovih i ostalih ribara s Ferryja, a većina ostataka putuje 80 kilometara cestom do aukcija u Lowestoftu. Daveov posao u Ferryju još je jedna stepenica na ljestvici održivosti ove živahne male zajednice, jer kupci tijekom cijele godine hrle u njegovu kolibu kako bi kupili raznovrsnu svježu, vrhunsku morsku hranu, čuvajući novac i vrijednost unutar mjesta. The wind freshens now as the sun gets up and Ed skilfully re-shoots all the pots back in their correct rows rebaiting each one with the standard salted herring, caught in the same waters months before. The inshore seas of this coast are alive with herring at present, although they currently attract little premium, being now “spent” after spawning, sustaining only hungry cod and bass before they once more, move off to deeper water. The final pot disappears over the gunwales and we make for home on the last of the flood. An exciting morning with a fascinating and hugely nostalgic insight into low-impact and selective fishing carried out in time-honoured fashion using techniques which the years have failed to erode. As we tie up and decant the catch into the “keep pot” on the mooring, I reflect on the emotions and feelings that have drawn me back here after so long. Saltwater is definitely in my blood and it runs stronger with each trip I make to harbours, markets, auctions and of course to sea. Fishing out of Felixstowe Ferry again, has crystallised this for me. I feel such a strong affinity for the place and its inhabitants and it has only further cemented my feelings and passion to be involved in supporting this bastion of the last wild hunters, as much as I can. Sitting later with a coffee in hand, on the decking of the “Winkle” cafe overlooking the jetty, whilst waiting for Rob to come ashore and watching the different elements of this community at work and play, it’s easy to see why Felixstowe Ferry still thrives. It is sustainable. Fishing and its support services, manufacturing, retail, food service, tourism and recreation all combine beautifully here in a microcosm, on a relatively small but critically defined scale. Zaista je nevjerojatno i svjedočiti i doživjeti, a sada još više za mene – upravo sam podnio zahtjev za privez.